My wife and I recently returned from a couple of weeks in southern Germany. Bavaria to be more specific. I’ve traveled extensively all over the globe and I can say with some authority that it’s one of the most beautiful versions of countryside in the world, in many ways like Highland County with rolling hills and vast areas of picturesque farmland.
It’s also a trip back into the early pre-war 20th century with some small towns like Rothenburg, Regensburg and Wurzburg looking like Hollywood scenes of Christmas villages with castles overlooking rivers and cobblestone streets.
Yet, my intent here is less about writing a travel log and more about things observed and learned from parts of the world I’ve been through. Traveling through China, Brazil, Venezuela or Egypt, for example, leaves very unique impressions and hallmarks of cultural differences. The same holds for southern Germany, a place that loves its relationship with beer, or should I say “bier.” We experienced a heavy dose of that relationship visiting Munich during Oktoberfest, where media reminders will tell you that in the Munich area, the average amount of beer consumed during Oktoberfest is about 36 million mugs. And yes, they actually have Beer Gardens.
Moving on to meaningful observations of note. First, the rail network in Germany is phenomenal. It’s almost not worth it to own a car, in spite of the temptations from rides like BMW, Mercedes and Audi. It’s a beautiful way to travel, even from small town to small town, at speeds often approaching 190 mph. But besides the convenience and picturesque views, the extent of this public network of travel means less pollution. As of 2022, the per-capita output of CO2 emissions in Germany is exactly half that of the United States as measured in millions of metric tons.
Further evidence of their technological effects on climate change is the number of wind turbines and solar panel farms visible out the train window as you blow by at 186 mph. Through towns, villages and the countryside, the incidence of solar panels on red-tiled roofs seems everywhere.
So much for renewables… except for one further thought. We had to divert our planned train travel away from Vienna, Prague, and Warsaw because of the “hundred-year” flooding that swept through Central Europe after unprecedented rains, washing out roads, train tracks and river banks. I can assure you that Florida, North Carolina and Tennessee would have much to talk about with these Central Europeans around the table of pity and commiseration.
A related event, not necessarily unique to Germany, was a conversation I had with a young ticket agent in the Regensburg train station. I explained to her that we needed to re-route because of the flooding. She said “What flooding?”
I responded, “You aren’t aware of the flooding all across Central Europe? Haven’t you seen or read about this?”
She looked me in the eyes and said, “I don’t watch the news, read the papers or do social media. It’s all misinformation and lies.”
I pondered, “How sad is that. Young people everywhere, losing faith in a common consensus of what constitutes truth,” and worried once again about the future everywhere.
On another comparative note, as the Interstate system was evolving in the U.S. and suburbs were spreading at sprawling rates, I remember my father remarking once that cities were developing with more attention and concern for cars than people. I had that same thought as my wife, Jennifer (aka Gigi), and I walked our way around seven German cities, cities that seemed built for pedestrians, and enhanced by electrified trams and buses. We averaged between four to five miles a day walking around the seven cities, a circuit that would be very difficult to replicate in America today without putting your life at risk. Walking and bicycling… it’s something I’ve always liked about Hillsboro. People in our fair city don’t seem to be restrained by their seat belts to get out of their cars to walk or pedal. That’s a good thing.
German food. With all that you read about how important it is to cut back on red meat and processed foods it amazed me the amount of meat and sausages that are consumed in Germany. Sausages and more sausages. And then it takes a lot of beer to wash all those “bangers” down. The average lifespan of Germans in 2023 was 81.38 years. For Americans in 2023, it was 79.30. Conclusion: Either we need to eat more sausages, drink more beer or do more walkabouts!
As a very young child, I spent a few years in Germany after the war as my father was stationed there, helping to effect the occupation and economic development of post-war Germany. My memories have faded with the evanescence of aging, but I do still remember the Christmas-like tiled and stucco-wooded homes, the toy store windows, the apple strudel, and the wonderful brown bread full of spelt and rye flours, molasses, and cocoa powder.
If you can, I recommend traveling near and far, for what there is to learn, to broaden experiences, develop tolerances, and see how others are adapting to a rapidly changing world. It’s what “travels through Germany with Gigi and beer” was all about.
Bill Sims is a Hillsboro resident, retired president of the Denver Council on Foreign Relations, an author and runs a small farm in Berrysville with his wife. He is a former educator, executive and foundation president.